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"Ticks all the boxes you would expect of a gastro bar: simple design, good food, a selection of wines at affordable prices, and a promise of more to come.
We went along and were delighted to find it thronging with local people.
What struck us was the sexiness of the place, the simplicity of the décor with its soft teal and sage walls, the pared down style of wooden tables and chairs, and the massive wooden bar, the length of the room. It was obvious that a degree of intelligence had gone into the thinking of the layout, the decor and the menu. Nothing overstated but everything very well executed.
The menu, displayed on blackboards, has a definite continental feel with a selection of smaller dishes to start, reminiscent of the racciones served in tapas bars in Madrid. Eager to sample as many dishes as possible, we ordered three lighter dishes before moving onto the serious ones.
Our plate of charcuterie consisted of chorizo, peppered salami and beautifully cured Serrano ham. Crisply toasted thin slices of ciabatta and dish of cornichons, the latter giving that contrasting piquancy to the saltiness of the meats. The anchovies had just the right amount of garlic, with a hint of rosemary in the marinade. I treated myself to buttery pan-fried wild mushrooms served with what almost looked like a little dim-sum, with the white of the egg neatly frilled around a softly cooked yolk.
By now we were well into our bottle of Otra Vida Malbec, a rich plummy wine from Argentina well priced at £13.95. Our dining partners had ordered the Rioja, £16.95, slighter lighter in body but with that lovely oakiness that you would expect.
The first main dish to arrive was a handsomely sized Kentish burger, topped with a good strong blue cheese, served with a large dish of thin, crisp fries. Hot on its heels came smoked haddock fishcakes, nestling in a sea of creamed leeks, the leeks a little too creamy for me but adored by my partner. I ordered the char-grilled chorizo, with piquillo peppers served on wilting watercress and toast, which appeared sparse on the plate in comparison to the evening’s special - a mountain of sausages, creamy mash in a pool of rich, caramely onion, but was surprisingly filling.
Vegetarians are catered for with pasta options, soft Brie de Meaux in toasted breadcrumbs with chilli jelly and a scrumptious St Maure goat’s cheese tart with basil oil.
Sausages are prepared by Hazell’s in the High Street. Where possible, they source supplies locally. Fish, meat, vegetables – even the commis chef, is Thanet grown.
If I had to find fault anywhere, I suppose it would be the lack of a cosy zone. If I was popping in for a drink – or perhaps continuing the evening after a meal was finished, a couple of squashy sofas wouldn’t go amiss.
However, squashy sofas aside, we had a thoroughly enjoyable evening, at a very reasonable price of around £36 for two, including wine.
The originality of the menu, coupled with the simplicity of its presentation, and service so good you don’t notice it.
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Jo who visited Peens Gastro Bar - Broadstairs in July 2010
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